Saturday, 8 July 2023

A saunter round the Northern Quarter

I did a bit of a mini crawl around the Northern Quarter of Manchester city centre the other afternoon, checking out a few pubs I hadn't been to for several years.

I popped first into the Unicorn on Church Street, where Manchester Jazz Society met in the upstairs function room on Thursday nights until the summer of 2019. I'd heard it'd gone a bit rough since, and sure enough there was a guy fitting a security door to the side entrance and the new landlady was manhandling a barred customer into the street from the main one. The serving hatch at the bottom of the stairs has been shut off, depriving it of its unusual island bar, and Draught Bass replaced with Doom Bar. Thankfully the Hare and Hounds round the corner on Shudehill was just the same: old boys watching the afternoon racing on TV with pints of cheap, well kept Holt's Bitter. 

I was aiming for the launch of a new beer, Blackjack Best Bitter served from oak casks, at their sole tied house, the Smithfield Market Tavern on Swan Street. As usual I was early so had a quick look inside the Mackie Mayor food hall next door and peered through the windows of the now keg-only Wheatsheaf round the corner. It was still a couple of minutes before the official start time of five o'clock when I arrived at the Smithfield, but the barman kindly turned round the pump-clip and served me the first pint of the new beer. The wood certainly gave it a different character, a sort of pithy leanness that I found quite appealing.

I called at the Crown and Kettle at the bottom of Oldham Road and Port Street Beer House on the way back to Piccadilly station, sitting on the benches outside the latter with a pint of very pale and bitter Five Points XPA as the sun sank over the Rochdale Canal, which rounded off an enjoyable afternoon nicely.




3 comments:

  1. Sounds a proper afternoon, Matthew.

    Shame the Wheatsheaf has ditched cask but not surprising. Marston wasn't it ?

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    1. Yes, I think so. There was a documentary a while back about the redevelopment of the city centre and north Manchester, part of which was filmed there as it's now the favoured pub of people from Collyhurst, despite the Marble Arch being much closer to their estate.

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  2. It's a real shame about the Unicorn, as back in the day, it could always be relied on for a decent pint of Draught Bass. Your findings underscore the often fickle nature of the pub trade, and are proof that nothing stays the same.

    The other pubs sound good though, especially the Hare & Hounds, which I had the pleasure of visiting, just over a week ago.

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